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REPAIR OF AN AUDIO PLAYER WHICH DOES NOT SUBMIT SIGNS OF LIFE

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Despite its promising name Extreme (It seems like a super-duper resistant to shock and other mechanical influences), the player came to the repair table precisely because of a mechanical malfunction. On the example of repairing this player, we will get acquainted with methods for eliminating mechanical malfunctions, and at the same time superficially study the structure of a modern MP3 player.

At first glance, the design of this MP3 miracle does not cause much emotion. Despite this, the player, as it turned out, has good sound quality (nice bass, good volume - 10 mW maximum per ear).

We study the malfunction.

Repair of any equipment begins with an external inspection, any radio mechanic knows about this.

We look.

Inside the case, two headphone jacks are pressed through (WOW EXTREME.). Yes, this X-Cube has a pair of headphone outputs, so sharing music with a neighbor is easy.

We open the case.

For convenient disassembly, put the device on a bright surface, such as a landscape sheet. This little “trick” will help you not to lose small screws. On a white background, small details are clearly visible. Armed with the appropriate screwdriver, unscrew the 4 screws on the back of the player.
In modern electronics, the docking of parts of the body occurs with the help of plastic latches and stops. We open the case. In this case, it is better not to rush, otherwise only memories will remain from the latches ... If you do not know how to, practice on the remote controls from the TV set or other equipment. For opening, you can use a knife (preferably from some plastic). After opening the device, remove the electronic board from the case. A Li - pol (lithium - polymer) battery is glued to the back wall with adhesive tape. It is not worth tearing it away from the case, so that later you do not waste time re-gluing and orienting the battery in the case. It is better to unsolder two terminals - plus (+) and minus (-) of the battery. The main thing in this operation is not to short-circuit these two wires! Everything. Electronics removed!

Next, we inspect the printed circuit board, take out the broken connectors. In the photograph, the red areas mark the printed pads to which the connectors were soldered. Solder the broken connectors. For these purposes, you must use the appropriate tool. You can use a soldering iron with a thin tip with a diameter of 2 - 4 mm and a power of 25 watts. If necessary, the copper tip of the soldering iron can be sharpened with a file, giving the copper rod the shape most convenient for painstaking work. You should not use a hot air soldering iron, since hot air can melt the plastic base of the connectors.

To properly solder the connector, you must first solder 1 of the 3 conclusions of the connector, and then center the part more evenly and solder the remaining conclusions. After the malfunction is eliminated, we restore the connection of the battery terminals.

We are testing the player.

Check the operation of the micro buttons. To press the miniature buttons, we use any sharp non-metallic device, for example, a wooden toothpick.

The practice of repairing MP3 players shows that connectors and buttons often break. Sometimes it’s very difficult to find the right buttons. You can use the following trick. As a rule, such functional buttons as recording, section repeat (AB) and others are used extremely rarely. If the faulty button and the “underused" button are the same, then you can re-solder them by swapping them.

After testing the player X-Cube X-305 button malfunction was detected Menu (M), which made it difficult to use the player comfortably. It was decided to apply the above permutation method. Button Menu (M) swapped with a button Return (>) when navigating the menu. Agree, it's better than clicking on 3-5 times Menu (M) in anticipation of an adequate “reaction” of the player! Naturally, when returning the device to the owner (if the player is not yours), he should be informed about this.

It is easier to use a thermoair soldering iron for dismantling micro buttons, but in most cases a regular power of 25 watts is quite suitable. When soldering, you can slightly bend the conclusions of the micro buttons using tweezers. In cases where dismantling is difficult (very tight arrangement of parts), the following method should be applied.

Using a sharp knife or scalpel, cut the findings at the base of the micro-button. After that, remove the button housing, and solder the remaining conclusions. This method is convenient in that it helps to “free up space” near the terminals, and, therefore, facilitate the dismantling and subsequent installation of a new button.

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